Edinburgh Insider Guide

My tips on where to stay what to do and places to eat in the Scottish Capital.

STAY:

Nira Caledonia

Experience the splendour of Edinburgh’s 18th century New Town, at the elegant 4-star Nira Caledonia. This boutique property is found within two adjacent neo-classical Georgian townhouse mansions in Stockbridge.

General Manager Chris Lynch and his team immediately make you feel welcome and at home. Guest rooms have been recently renovated and feature classic décor, characterful period features, thoughtful touches like espresso coffee & fine gourmet teas, as well as contemporary comforts like luxury bathrooms with L’Occitane amenities.

Edinburgh author and literary critic, John Wilson, who wrote under the pseudonym Christopher North in Edinburgh’s famous 19th century ‘Blackwood’s Magazine’, lived in this house, and has inspired the name of the hotel’s Blackwood’s Bar & Grill.

Open to non-residents it has quite the reputation for locally sourced Scottish meat and produce, cooked over a genuine charcoal grill. The Chateaubriand is a must-try.

NiraCaledonia.com

 

Scotland’s Personal Hotels
The Nira Caledonia is a member of Scotland’s Personal Hotels, a curated collection of Scottish properties focusing on independent hotels that offer an authentic taste of Scotland, from Highland castles; country manor houses; old lodges; to city townhouses.

Scotland-Hotels.com

 

The Edinburgh Grand

I think this must be one of the finest addresses to call home whilst in the city.

Living up to its moniker; The Edinburgh Grand is an impressive landmark building on St Andrew Square, in the west end. This Grade A-listed former National bank of Scotland building has been sensitively restored and reimagined by local firm Lateral City as the ultimate in high-end self-contained, contemporary holiday apartments.

The 50 luxury residences include Grand Studios for single travellers; one and two beds; right up to the spectacular 3-bed Penthouse with 360 panoramic views of Edinburgh.

From the moment you enter the classic entrance lobby and look up through the central atrium you know you’ve arrived at somewhere very special.

LaterarlCity.com/Property/The-Edinburgh-Grand/

 

Old Town Chambers

Edinburgh’s medieval old Town is centred upon the ancient and evocative Royal Mile that runs from the city’s imposing castle down to the Royal Palace of Hollyrood. It’s on this extraordinary street that one finds the unique Old Town Chambers serviced apartments. Whether you rent a studio, family apartment, townhouse or a penthouse, you can be sure that each will have period features and contemporary styling.

LateralCity.com/Property/Old-Town-Chambers/

 

EAT:

The Ivy on the Square

Unlike some restaurant chains, each Ivy retains an authentic style and character. Edinburgh’s Ivy on the Square is no exception. General Manager Eric Garnier has made this one of the city’s flagship restaurants; with a superb cocktail bar. If you skip the tempting Grilled Whole Lobster or Scottish prime beef, you can enjoy a sophisticated 2 course lunchtime menu for as little as £16.50. The restaurant also offers Breakfast, Brunch, traditional Afternoon Tea, and of course a la carte dinners.

TheIvyEdinburgh.com

 

The Hawksmoor

This classic seafood and grill restaurant & cocktail bar is within the old banking hall of The Edinburgh Grand.

TheHawksmoor.com

 

Twenty Princes Street

As the name implies, this destination restaurant is on Princes Street, the main thoroughfare through the city – it is a real surprise.

The classic décor, with leather upholstered banquettes, marble & wooden tables and gilt detailing, is impressive. The triple height bay windows offer views out cross old town and the castle.

Many of the dishes are prepared on a Josper Grill, giving the meats and seafood a distinctive, rich and smoky flavour. Kick things off with a Juniper Cocktail, made with Edinburgh Elderflower gin, kiwi and apple. Starters include Scottish oysters, and West Coast scallops as well as the house signature dish of Buccleuch Black Pudding and Haggis French Toast – sounds strange but it’s so indulgent and tasty.

As well as main dishes of grilled meats, fish and a vegetarian option, Twenty Princes Street also promises one of the best Sunday lunches in town.

TwentyPrincesStreet.co.uk

 

The Register Club

This relaxed bar & lounge in The Edinburgh Grand with restored wood-panelled walls, and smart leather club seating includes a games room – making for a relaxed yet hip place to meet in the city.

Wedgewood

Celebrating 10 years on the Edinburgh Restaurant scene, Paul Wedgewood’s award-winning restaurant has a menu that changes with the seasons and evolves daily based on availability of local produce as well as foraged foods and herbs.

WedgwoodTheRestaurant.co.uk

 

The Milkman

Intimate coffee shop & espresso bar in Old Town, in a restored historic shop at the bottom of the famous Cockburn Street. Authentic and friendly.

TheMilkman.Coffee

 

DO:

Autumn/ Winter Festivals

Edinburgh is of course well-known for its summer International Festival and the Festival Fringe, yet autumn and winter is a great time to experience a less crowded atmosphere of the Scottish capital. Expect seasonal markets, street food and events that lead up to Edinburgh’s Hogmanay.

VisitScotland.com & EdinburghFestivalCity.com

 

Edinburgh Cocktail Week

A week of cocktail fun, from 15th to 21st October, including sampling events, parties and masterclasses

EdinburghCocktailWeek.co.uk

 

Scottish International Storytelling Festival

Running in Old Town and at venues across the city, from 19th to 31st October, this event is an interesting way to welcome autumn and Halloween.

SISF.org.uk

 

Craft Beer Experience

This festival from 15th-17th November is a celebration of craft beers, including 13 craft breweries from Edinburgh and beyond.

CraftBeerExperience.co.uk

The Hidden Edinburgh

For a real insider’s perspective of Edinburgh, check out the recommendations of locals on The Hidden Edinburgh, the city’s award-winning blog.

HiddenEdinburgh.net

 

 

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Edinburgh – Short break city guide travel tips

STAY:

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Old Town Chambers

For a luxury home-from-home in Scotland’s capital, then take a look at the 5 star luxury accommodation at the Old Town Chambers. Found in the city’s Old Town, these upscale apartments include historic features from the 15th century, and all the comforts of the 21st.

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The townhouse has plenty of old world charm, whilst the penthouse overlooking the city has urban swagger. Your hosts will even arrange for a seductively tasty dine-in box of goodies from the local Valvona & Crolla deli, for breakfast or dinner.

Lateralcity.com/Old-Town-Chambers

The Raeburn

Once an extravagant family home, this 19th century Georgian house is now a stylish boutique hotel. Found in über cool Stockbridge, a village within the city, this intimate hotel has a lively brasserie restaurant serving British classics. Location is ideal for enjoying a relaxed city stay, close to the Royal Botanic Gardens, art galleries and yet only 15 minutes’ walk from the city centre.

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TheRaeburn.com

The George Hotel

The classic Georgian elegance of city-centre George Street makes for a compelling address whilst in Edinburgh. Recently renovated, The George Hotel offers up-market 4 star comfort – sophisticated simplicity is the style, with contemporary touches within a grand setting.

TheGeorgeHotelEdinburgh.co.uk

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Nira Caledonia

Edinburgh’s New Town, home to some of the UK’s finest Neo-classical and Georgian architecture is deservedly a UNESCO World Heritage site. Experience life in a genuine mansion house from the ‘age of elegance’ at the romantic Nira Caledonia. Choose a Jacuzzi suite for an effervescent stay.

NiraCaledonia.com

EAT/DRINK:

Norn Restaurant

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Contemporary dining experience in the city’s fashionable docks area, Leith. Modern Scottish cuisine using regional produce, served in an uncomplicated stripped-back style restaurant space. Well-priced lunch menu, or for a truly memorable evening try the 7 course tasting menu with matching wines.

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NornRestaurant.com

Anfora Wine Bar

Staying in on-trend Leith, enjoy an evening at the warm and welcoming Anfora Wine bar. Specialising in organic and natural wines, this bar and restaurant is in one of Edinburgh’s historic buildings. It also offers seasonal dishes to complement the wines.

AnforaWinebar.co.uk

Bramble Bar

This world-class cocktail bar in Queen Street has a cocktail list that will take a while to navigate, but try the Bramble, with Hayman’s London Dry Gin, fresh lemon juice, crème de mures and just a touch of sugar syrup.

Bramblebar.co.uk

Devil’s Advocate

If you don’t stumble upon this bar/kitchen in Advocate’s Close in the city Old Town, then you may well be stumbling out of it, as it’s the place to try Scotland’s finest whiskies. This cosy space, in a former Victorian pump house, has a mezzanine dining area serving modern Scottish dishes, whilst downstairs the bar offers over 200 whiskies from home and abroad.

DevilsAdvocateEdinburgh.co.uk

Smith & Gertrude

Wine & Cheese – there’s nothing better, right?

Well, this smart bar in Hamilton Place in Stockbridge certainly believes so. Drop in for a glass of wine and some tasty cheese – choose from seasonal Scottish and European cheeses and Mediterranean cured meats. If you visit in the morning, then try one of their gourmet coffees.

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SmithandGertrude.com

Loudons

For a relaxed breakfast or brunch head to Fountainbridge and the artisan baker bar Loudons. Spacious venue with free Wi-Fi. It may be a bakery serving coffee, but you can also expect gluten- and dairy-free options.

Loudons.co.uk

DO:

Stockbridge & the Royal Botanic Gardens

My old neighbourhood, Stockbridge is one of Edinburgh’s most charming districts. Explore the Sunday market, or stroll through Inverleith Gardens or be mesmerised by the beauty of the Royal Botanic Gardens. The path beside the Water of Leith River makes for a gentle walk too.

rbge.org.uk

The Pitt

Headlined as Edinburgh’s food and drinks yard, the Pitt Street Market is a popular Saturday venue; the place for artisan produce and a great city vibe. Running until December 17th.

facebook.com/PittStMarket

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Summerhall Distillery

For a Scottish take on gin, enjoy a tour of this city distillery that makes gin from an original Bombay recipe dating back to the 1940s.

PickeringsGin.com

Galleries

Edinburgh offers an exceptional arts scene, but you don’t have to wait for the Festival or the Fringe to enjoy the city culture. Check out contemporary art at the Fruitmarket Gallery and head to Scotland’s three National Galleries in the city – Modern; Portrait; and at the National at The Mound;

NationalGalleries.org

Fruitmarket.co.uk

TRAVEL GUIDE:

The Luxury Editor

For up-to-date reviews of these and many more venues in Edinburgh, visit this site’s online guide dedicated to Edinburgh, curated by city resident Ross Fraser.

TheLuxuryEditor.com

BUY:

Valvona and Crolla

My favourite deli in Edinburgh, Valvona & Crolla, is also the city’s oldest. Still a family business, this Italian gourmet food and wine store is a pleasure to browse; or a place to enjoy a morning dose of caffeine in the Caffè Bar. There are cooking classes and demos too.

ValvonaCrolla.co.uk

Curioser and Curiouser

Edinburgh’s Broughton Street is home to independent bars, artisan coffee shops, restaurants and also some cool furniture and gift stores. For a unique and quirky gift, or homeware check out Curiouser and Curiouser.

CuriouserandCuriouser.com

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