Insider Guide Bordeaux, City of Wine

STAY:

Hotel Le Saint James

With its bijou vineyard, panoramic city views, striking architect-designed spaces, and modern art exhibits, this village hotel captures the flavour of both classic and contemporary Bordeaux.

Found a few kilometres outside the city, in charming Bouliac, this welcoming and unpretentious 4-star property undeniably celebrates good food & wine. As well as indulging in the gourmet Michelin-star restaurant, you can also brush up on your kitchen skills at their in-house cooking school; and fine-tune your palate with a wine tasting with the Le Saint James’ award-wining Sommelier, Richard Bernard.

Try the hotel’s very own ‘Vin de Jardin’ Bordeaux wine, from the hotel’s mini-vineyard that produces just 500 bottles a year; enjoy the regularly changing art exhibits that adorn the public spaces; or kick back on the pool terrace.

Although part of the elegant Relais & Chateaux network of hotels, at the Le Saint James ones feels at ease thanks to the friendly team. Good choice for a short break, as the transfer to the airport is less than half an hour, avoiding city centre traffic.

www.saintjames-bouliac.com

 

Mama Shelter

With eccentric Philippe Starck design, and always a lively restaurant bar, Mama Shelter brings a very particular brand of magic to their hotels. Bordeaux is no exception, where a former gas utility tower has been converted into one of the chain’s trendy, budget hotels. Fun option for a night out too – enjoying drinks on the roof terrace.

www.mamashelter.com/en/bordeaux

 

EAT:

 

La Vie en Rose

Café bistro, well-known amongst the locals for offering one of the best Sunday Brunch in Bordeaux. Find this ‘Salon de Thé’ in the ‘Place du Marché’ in the trendy Chartrons district.

Search @lavieenrosebordeaux on Facebook

 

Le Saint James

For some exquisite Aquitaine flavours, then visit Chef Nicolas Magie’s restaurant at Le Saint James. Even before you savour a mouthful you will be wowed by the Jean Nouvel architect-designed dining room – a understated modern space, surrounded by gardens and the vineyard, where they even turn off the lights at one point in the evening so you can relish the sparkling lights of that city view.

This is the second restaurant where Magie has achieved Michelin star recognition; and where the unique and rich terroir of France’s south west are his inspiration.

Richard Bernard, the hotel’s helpful sommelier (and restaurant manager) has curated the restaurant’s wine list, featuring over 2,000 different wines.

www.saintjames-bouliac.com

 

Le Quatrième Mur

In the city centre, in the splendid ‘Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux’ national opera building, this upscale brasserie, by Chef Philippe Etchebest, is a great spot for a leisurely lunch.

www.quatrieme-mur.com

 

Café de l’Espérance

Capturing the romance of a classic French eatery with wooden chairs and tables, tiled floor and menus on blackboards, this relaxed restaurant is well known for its generous buffet starters and deserts. Found in the village of Bouliac, run by the Relais & Chateaux Le Saint James Hotel.

 

DO:

 

Antique Fair & Flea Market

Pickup a lasting memento of your trip at Bordeaux’s Antique Fair, running now until 4 December, 2016; and then again 28 April to 8 May 2017.

www.bordeauxquinconces.com

 

La Cité du Vin

As one of the world’s great wine cities, it was about time Bordeaux had its own temple to it greatest export. Opened this summer, this remarkable structure is said to resemble the swirling movement of wine being poured into a glass. This compelling, interactive museum for the digital age will immerse you, metaphorically speaking, into the world of wine. Foodies should head to the 7th floor, to ‘Le 7’ restaurant which promises ‘seventh heaven’ for diners.

www.laciteduvin.com

 

Marché des Quais Sunday Market

One of the city’s most vibrant quarters is home to one of its best markets; found at the Quai des Chartrons, on the River Garonne. Tuck into tasty local treats here too, like oysters from the Bay of Arcachon.

 

CAPC – Contemporary Art Museum

Staying in Chartrons, the former hub of the wine industry, this gallery, like so many of the new venues in this part of the city is found in one of Bordeaux’s characterful old warehouses.

www.capc-bordeaux.fr

 

Vivres de l’Art – artists workshop

Just a few minutes north of Chartrons is this art gallery, exhibition and performance space that truly embodies modern Bordeaux.

www.lesvivresdelart.org

 

Ecole du Vin – School of Wine

Prestigious wine academy – check for details of courses and tastings.

http://www.bordeaux.com/wschool/fr/ecoleduvin

 

Côté Cours Cooking School

The cooking school at Le Saint James is not only for serious cooks – courses for kids, families and novices too. Make it part of your holiday.

Wine Tasting – Max Bordeaux

If you don’t have time for a wine trail, then experience some of the region’s finest wines by the glass at the Tasting Workshops held at this Wine Gallery and Cellar in the city centre.

www.maxbordeaux.com

 

 

City Tour

The local city tourism office can arrange private tours of the city tailored to your interests. Walking is one of the best ways to enjoy the city’s extraordinarily well preserved 18th century architectural heritage.

www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk

www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

 

BUY:

 

Independent retailers

Bordeaux is great for lovers of small, unique shops. The elegant streets at the heart of the chic area of the ‘Golden Triangle’ and those around the Quartier des Grands Hommes are home to some of the city’s best retailers; expect to find wonderful cheese stores; beautiful bakeries; indie chocolate makers; and luxury brands.

Also, the small street of Rue Bouffard is the place to find art galleries, fashion and more, all presented with French Savoir-faire and style.

Search @ruebouffard on Facebook

 

Chocolate

As one of Europe’s great trading ports, it’s not all about wine and cheese – chocolate is big in the city too. Try La Maison Darricau & Cadiot-Badie for some seductive treats.

www.cadiot-badie.com

www.darricau.com

 

TRAVEL:

 

Fly me to the Moon:

Bordeaux is easier than ever to get too. 2017 sees the Ligne à Grande Vitesse (LGV) train network link the city to Paris in about 2 hours. The Port of the Moon is now a popular cruise stop too, and

airlines such as Vueling are provide air-bridges from other European cities. I flew with Vueling from Málaga through Barcelona.

www.Vueling.com

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Andrew Forbes’ Insider Guide to Freestyle Cruising

Freestyle Cruising has come to the Mediterranean, with the arrival of NCL’s Norwegian Epic (which sails from Barcelona). Here’s what to expect.

Norwegian Epic calls Spain home

Dining:

Cruise dining is changing – no more sharing a table with strangers and eating at a fixed time. Freestyle Cruising, pioneered by Norwegian Cruise Line, means that guests have freedom to dine where they want, when they want, and with whom they want.

Aboard the Norwegian Epic I had a choice of 20 eateries offering seating for solo travellers, couples, friends and family.

Fine Dining Le Bistro

There are at least 5 complimentary restaurants included in the cruise fare. I liked the stylish ‘Manhattan Room’ with its striking design, friendly service and good quality food. For a more informal style, there is the ‘Taste’ restaurant (but some dishes were a bit hit-and-miss); the Asian ‘Shanghai’ restaurant; the 24 hour ‘O’Sheehan’s bar & grill’; and the ‘Garden Café Buffet’ which consistently served fresh and tasty food.

The Manhattan Room Restaurant

There’s also a choice of premium restaurants for a cover charge of 19.95 US dollars per person. It a fun chance to dress up if you want. I tried the chic, French ‘Le Bistro’ and the relaxed Italian ‘La Cucina’, both of which represented fair value for the quality menu and refined ambience. For meat lovers there was the Brazilian churrascaria ‘Moderno’, and the American steakhouse ‘Cagney’s’.

 

Drinking:

I counted almost 20 bars aboard the Norwegian Epic, from the chic ‘Shakers’ Martini & Champagne Bar to the ‘SVEDKA Ice Bar’ – said to be the only authentic ice bar on the high seas. But beware, each time you buy a drink there is 10% VAT (Spain and Italy) added, as well as an 18% service charge – so a beer can cost you $9. You cannot bring alcohol on-board unless you pay a $15 corkage fee per item. But you can bring with you mineral water and soft drinks. Drink packages are available, but it’s worth considering your consumption before purchasing. Both guests in the cabin have to be on the same ‘deal’ for the cruise, so for example if you opt for the ‘ultimate beverage package’ of $64 each per day, then that’s $128 per cabin per day – what’s more it only includes alcohol by the glass and soft drinks, it doesn’t include bottles of wine or water or coffee – that’s extra too. My advice it to ‘pay as you go’; or even better still, purchase your cruise with an offer that includes drinks.

Entertainment:

Until I sailed on the Norwegian Epic, I shared Simon Cowell’s opinion on cruise ship entertainment – let’s face it, cruise ship shows are notoriously cheesy. Well NCL are breaking the mould by signing up mainstream entertainment. I saw two of the included shows on-board; the laugh-out-load musical ‘Priscilla Queen of the Desert’, and the sexy dance show, ‘Burn the Floor’ (both West End & Broadway shows, but performed by emerging talent). I was really impressed (and surprised) by the quality and professional production.

Entertainment

Shore Excursions:

The convenience of a pre-arranged cruise tour ensures you see all the sights in time to get back on-board before the ship sails – but it doesn’t come cheap. The Norwegian Epic itineraries include opportunities to visit places like Rome, Florence, the Côte d’Azur, Palma, Barcelona as well as the Canary Islands, Madeira and more, with individual tours from $104 per person up to $398 per person. Personally I preferred exploring independently; renting an inexpensive car to drive the Amalfi coast for example, and taking the train on a one-day travel pass to reach Rome. Alternatively, stay on-board and enjoy the water park, the Pulse Fitness Centre, the Mandara spa, sun decks, or have a flutter in the casino. There are free on-board activities planned throughout each day too.

Cabins:

The cheaper staterooms on a cruise are on the inside without windows (ideal if you plan to spend most of the time enjoying the ship), whilst the most expensive can be in an exclusive boutique-style ‘hotel within a hotel’, like the ‘The Haven’ aboard the Epic. NCL caters for solo travellers with their innovative ‘studios’ for singles only, which have access to a private lounge bar and mixer events throughout the week.

The main balcony staterooms are undoubtedly compact, the double bed is small for a tall person and the balcony was disappointingly furnished with just two chairs – to have a sunbed you need to upgrade to a premium cabin. Yet they are well-designed, sound-proofed and have lots of storage. There’s a safe, filter coffee machine, a mini bar and room service. In my experience, housekeeping was outstanding – clean towels twice a day if required, and an evening turndown service.

Epic cruise ship towel animal

Internet:

Holidaying on the high seas means using the cruise ship’s satellite system for internet access. The Epic had pay-as-you-go internet for .95 US cents a minute or .50 cents with a pre-paid plan. Alternatively, use free Wi-Fi whilst ashore, or contact your mobile operator before you sail for roaming packages for use in ports of call.

NCL offers a smartphone app for unlimited messages & calls between guests on-board for a nominal fixed fee.

Pulse Fitness centre with a view

Cruise tips:

Budget for tips and service extras. Cruise ships typically charge tips; and on the Norwegian Epic it was a steep $12.95 service charge per person per day billed to your account. If you don’t want to pay it you must dispute it before you check out on your last day of the cruise. Check your account every day on the smartphone app or interactive TV in your cabin. Pack snacks like chocolate and gum and household medicines like pain-killers etc. as on-board prices are higher than at home.

www.es.ncl.eu

Aqua Park on-board

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