hotels | Andrew Forbes

Madrid Insider Guide

The Spanish capital has embraced 2017 with new hip hotels, cool bars, top restaurants and world-class arts exhibitions. It’s time you booked your ticket to Madrid

STAY:

Only You Atocha

Madrid’s hotel scene has never been so dynamic, and the new Only You property in Atocha is a showcase of all that’s cool and on-trend in the city right now.

With a bold, urban aesthetic, the Only You Atocha has dedicated its ground floor to being a seriously hip lobby bar and restaurant area created by acclaimed interior designer Lázaro Rosa Violán. Relax with a morning coffee from ‘The Bakery by Mama Framboise’; lunch in the buzzing ‘‘Trotamundos’ restaurant; then later get the evening started with cocktails at the hotel’s bar.

If you’re arriving by the high-speed AVE train, or on the local service from the airport, then within minutes of stepping onto the platform you’ll be sashaying into one of the city’s most trendy hotels, that’s also perfectly located for enjoying the nearby museum quarter.

There are 205 guest rooms, so there’s a good choice for different budgets and preferences.

OnlyYouHotels.com

Urso Hotel & Spa

The pioneer of boutique luxury in Madrid, the Urso now represents surprisingly good value for chic accommodation in the city. This neoclassical building has sophisticated interiors, and elegant uncluttered rooms. Try the new ‘Media Ración’ restaurant by Fernando Cuenllas, with a menu of sophisticated, artisan tapas and sharing plates.

HotelUrso.com

EAT:

Bodega de los Secretos

This labyrinthine, underground restaurant was the oldest winery in the city, but now it’s a stylish restaurant serving modern Spanish cuisine. The menu has lots of appetising choices such as burrata with tomato and basil; goat’s cheese salad with caramelised apple; as well as generous main dishes including confit of cod with pear; or mushroom risotto – popular dishes, prepared and presented in the restaurants’ distinctive style.

Don’t think it is claustrophobic, it’s spacious and light, especially in the part that has double height ceilings. The best thing about the old wine storage areas means that many of the tables there are in their own alcove, so you have a real feeling of privacy.

During the renovations, the bodega revealed many of the secrets of its 400-year history, from the times of the insurgence against Napoleon, to the Spanish Civil War.

BodegaDeLosSecretos.com

Angelita Madrid

Created by the Villalón brothers, and named after their grandmother, Angelita is a new wine bar and basement cocktail bar – found in Calle Reina, at the epicentre of Madrid’s mixology scene. Downstairs in the basement is the smart Bar Americano, open from 17.00. With a compelling urban atmosphere, expect some theatre and showmanship as your cocktail is prepared. Choose a classic like a Martinez, or Whiskey Sour; alternatively, sip something more exotic like an Acapulco.

Upstairs is a sophisticated wine bar with over 500 wines (some 25 by the glass) accompanied by a modern, seasonal menu made with ingredients from the brother’s organic vegetable garden on the edge of Madrid.

Madrid-Angelita.es

Hermosos y Malditos

This smart cocktail bar and restaurant is the place to go when in Madrid’s chic Salamanca district. Contemporary, unpretentious, and well-priced, it’s a real find in such a fancy neighbourhood. Taking its name from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel, ‘The Beautiful and Damned’, this restaurant and bar is stylish yet accessible, with superb cuisine.

HermososyMalditosMadrid.com

Chocolatería San Ginés

A visit to Madrid means churros with hot chocolate. There are several classic as well as contemporary venues, but the Chocolatería San Ginés is certainly amongst the best. Order a selection of both the thin churros with piped edges and the thick ‘porras’ version which has lots of hallow gaps, perfect for soaking up the hot chocolate as you dip them.

ChocolateriaSanGines.com

Platea Madrid

Gastronomic food courts are all too often over-rated, but the Platea, within an art deco former cinema is a must for food-lovers. Where the stalls seating once was, is now a multi-level dining experience. Choose from the myriad of gourmet offerings and then find a seat and enjoy. Tapas, sushi, pintxos, international cuisines, vermut, artisan beers, wines – you’ll find it all. Head upstairs to the circle and you’ll be able to indulge in a gourmet fine-dining experience at ‘Arriba’, by chef Ramón Freixa.

PlateaMadrid.com

DO:

Devour Madrid Food Tour

Getting to know and truly experience a city is best done wandering around on foot. If you like to try new foods too, then consider letting an expert guide help you discover Madrid. Devour Madrid, part of Devour Spain, as several city tours including the fascinating ‘Tapas, Taverns & History Tour’ that introduces you to local and Spanish specialities, whilst also enabling you to see the capital from a fresh perspective, thanks to a real insight into Madrid’s history.

Devour Spain has now expanded to include tours in Barcelona, Seville, and Malaga, with experiences that embrace tapas, Spanish history, flamenco and wine.

DevourSpain.com

Matadero Madrid

A former livestock market & slaughterhouse is now the city’s coolest arts and cultural centres. The early 20^th century architecture has been restored, creating a vast multi-venue site, home to the national dance company as well as theatre spaces, galleries, exhibition halls, and workshops. Adjacent to the centre are some fascinating glass house pavilions filled with exotic plants from different global climate zones.

MataderoMadrid.org

La Tabacalera

An alternative arts venue, where you can take in seasonal exhibitions, workshops and shows.

LaTabacalera.net

MicroTeatro

If you speak Spanish then enjoy these innovative, short theatre pieces by emerging artists. Each is 15 minutes long, with only 15 people in the audience, in a space of only 15 square metres.

MicroTeatro.es

Museum Triangle

In addition to the alternative arts scene, the three unmissable city galleries are Reina Sofia, the Prado Museum, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum.

MuseoReinaSofia.es

MuseoThyssen.org

MuseoDelPrado.es

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Hotel Las Arenas Balneario Spa, Valencia

A large luxury hotel, with a ‘corporate-feel’ close to the port and right on Valencia’s broad, sandy beach

During my stay in Valencia I was hosted at this 5 star property on Valencia’s Mediterranean shoreline. It’s on the site of an original spa dating back to the late 19^th century, with the classic style of the historic ‘balneario’ buildings maintained. The new spa facilities are in a dedicated part of the hotel.

Location

This ‘Leading Hotels of the World’ property is out of the city centre, so has the advantage of being right on the beach and close to the port area which has been significantly enhanced for the America’s Cup. To visit the City of Arts & Sciences, the down-town restaurants, and cultural attractions you need to take a taxi.

The highs

Excellent spa, hydrotherapy circuit and swimming pools
Well-presented, and maintained property
Well-equipped rooms, supported by good house-keeping

The lows

Lacks ambiance or atmosphere – feels generic
Away from attractions of Valencia city centre
No lively bar scene

Ambiance

Built for the America’s Cup the property is large, so off season feels quiet. It lacks the energy and style of a city hotel, but of course during high season it will be busier with holiday makers, creating more of a buzz. The décor is quite pared back and neutral and for me makes the place feel generic and corporate. In my mind more should have been made of its spa heritage and also its links with sailing and the ocean.

Guest rooms

Rooms are spacious with balconies overlooking the beach and Mediterranean. Well equipped with CD player, large flat screen TV, Wi-Fi and networking. The bathrooms are relatively large too, with a spa-style shower, bath tub and amenities by L’Occitane.

Breakfast

The breakfast is impressive, with a very wide selection of foods, with excellent, attentive service. The tables are not dressed with linen, but instead with woven mats – the experience isn’t particularly stylish, but the quality is very good.

Dining

I didn’t have the opportunity to try the bistro restaurant but I have eaten at a few of the excellent nearby paella and seafood restaurants close by, a few minutes’ walk along the promenade that runs directly in front of the hotel.

http://www.hotelvalencialasarenas.com

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Living it up in Amsterdam – with a few nights at The Grand

This year I headed to SAIL2015 – it’s pretty much Europe’s buggest Maritime Festival. Every 5 years this mega boating bonaza sails into town, and what’s more the flotilla of vessels is dominated by some of the most stunning Tall Ships in the world. Google it – it’s extraordinary.

The trip was organised by the City of Amsterdam, through their development office ‘I Amsterdam’. As a guest of the city I had extraordinary access to the event, including a vist to the iconic Amsterdam Clipper, and a chance to sail down the river to mingle amongst the boats and then enjoy an open air classical music concert! Yeah, those Dutch know how to make messing about in boats something fun.

But a highlight of the trip was also the chance to visit some fancy hotels – and you all know how much I like 5 star luxury. You can see my review of the Hotel De L’ Europe here. I also spent two nights at the Sofitel Legend The Grand. As with other Legendary properties, the place is a real part of the city’s history.

Aptly, considering I was there for teh SAIL festival, The Grand was once the Dutch Admiralty, and let’s not forget that before the Brits starting dominating the globe, the Dutch were their first as the world’s greatest maritime nation. The Admiralty was a centre of serious power. Now its the centre of some serious luxury. Having said that I only got to stay in a Superior Room – yeah, I know that sounds like a spoilt brat, but really, I wanted a suite!

You can read my review of The Grand for The Luxury Editor here.

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Andrew Forbes’ Insider Guide to Athens

Pallas Athena Hotel

Even before Greece’s financial crisis, Athens had always been a vibrantly political city and many of the capital’s buildings have become canvasses for urban street artists.

Found on the predominantly neoclassical Kotzia square, the smart Pallas Athena 5 star boutique hotel takes inspiration from the creativity and urban art found across Athens. The brilliant white lobby has stand-out pieces of art that set the scene as soon as you arrive, whilst amongst the 63 guest rooms and luxury suites are ‘graffiti’ rooms with works by well-known artists who have created different themes to appeal to families, couples, and younger guests. There are also classic suites too, with more low-key décor and art.

Take a moment to explore the ‘Agreco Corner’, the hotel’s boutique for organic produce, fragrances and body care products from the Grecotel’s Cretan estate. The same products are found in the guest bathrooms.

Dining at the hotel’s Gourmet Restaurant is on-trend with its Cretan cuisine, including some excellent cheeses, organic vegetables and island lamb – three course meals are from 22 euro. Breakfast is very generous, with international favourites as well as mouth-watering Cretan delicacies.

www.grecotelpallasathena.com

New Hotel

This design hotel is close to the ‘Plateia Syntagmatos’, the constitution square, making it well connected with the city metro network and easy to get to from the airport, thanks to the direct X95 bus. It’s also steps away from the Parliament, so take the opportunity to see the regular changing of the guard ceremony.

The hotel’s unique ‘look and feel’ was created by the famous Brazilian designers, Fernando and Humberto Campana. Inspired by their iconic Favela chair, the hotel’s lobby is the first of many spaces that will make a real impact. An art installation of reclaimed furniture wood, including much from the original Olympic Palace Hotel, covers the walls of the entrance and the restaurant. The penthouse-style rooftop lounge is open till late. Breakfast in the New Taste restaurant is excellent and the morning chocolate cakes are irresistibly good.

The striking guest rooms include designer furniture, some vintage pieces from the original hotel, as well as signature design motifs from the Campana brothers. It all adds up to a great-value, cool, central place to call home whilst in the city.

www.yeshotels.gr

SEE & DO:

The Acropolis

So when in Athens, one has to visit the Acropolis, birthplace of modern western civilisation. But it’s worth bearing in mind that about 10,000 other people have the same thought each day. So it’s important to be prepared when heading to this ancient citadel, home to the iconic Parthenon, the Erechtheum and other remarkable sanctuaries and temples.

First of all get to the ticket office early, when it opens (between 8am and 8.30am) before the cruise ship groups arrive – allow 20 minutes or so to walk up to the entrance from the metro. The 12 euro ticket is valid for a few days and includes other ancient sights. Go now as the Greek government has suggested that prices may increase considerably by Easter 2016.

Wear super-comfy shoes as many of the paths are poorly maintained, and the rest, well they’re ancient.

At sunset embrace being a tourist and take the short walk to Areopagus Hill and take a selfie with the Acropolis as a backdrop.

http://odysseus.culture.gr

The Acropolis Museum

Athens has no shortage of exceptional museums and galleries celebrating the country’s classical heritage, including of course the National Archaeological Museum. Yet I particularly enjoyed the new Acropolis Museum. Built ready to house the Elgin Marbles, (still controversially held by the British Museum), it has a permanent collection presented with contemporary flair, as well as temporary exhibitions. The restaurant is excellent too – a great place for lunch.

www.theacropolismuseum.gr

The Benaki Museum

If you can’t take in any more ancient artefacts, then this museum offers a refreshing change with some memorable 20^th century Greek art. (There’s also plenty of pieces covering the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods if you still have an appetite for history).

www.benaki.gr

Central Market District

City markets have to be one of the best ways to get immersed within contemporary day-to-day city life. Head to the Varvakeio Market before breakfast for a lively start to the day. In addition to the central hall full of traders selling fish, meat, vegetables, cheese and more, the surrounding streets and alleyways offer a myriad of fascinating street vendors.

www.cityofathens.gr

Outdoor Cinema

The balmy eastern Mediterranean climate means that outdoor cinema is a regular Athens pastime. Cine Aegli is one of the more commercial, but well located, just off Syntagma Square and set within beautiful gardens. One of the oldest is Cine Thissio – it also offers a spectacular backdrop of the illuminated Acropolis!

http://cine-thisio.gr

www.aeglizappiou.gr/cine.html

EAT:

Diporto

This basement restaurant, with a vintage feel, has no sign outside, and once inside, no menu. Sit, smile, and let the dishes and wine arrive – chances are you won’t spend more than 10 euro each.

No website – Head to corner of Theatrou Square and Sokratous street 9.

Varoulko Seaside

One of the best known restaurants in the city, now located at the Mikrolimano Marina, a cab ride out of the city centre. It’s a great excuse to enjoy some sea air, and further exercise the credit card – this is upscale award-winning Michelin star cuisine.

http://varoulko.gr

Psaras restaurant

Undeniably touristy, but if you’re looking for the quintessential Greek taverna experience with long wooden tables and woven seats set out under trees, then this is for you. Found in the quaint Plaka district which has a more charm than most areas of Athens.

www.psaras-taverna.gr

Bios terrace

Cool, urban roof terrace, perfect for a drink whilst taking in a view of the Acropolis. Bios has much more to offer since it’s an indie arts and cultural venue within an edgy industrial space.

www.bios.gr

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From Turkey to Greece…and the fabulous Kokkini Porta Rossa Hotel

From Marmaris Helen and I took the fast ferry, the Aegean Cat, to Rhodes.

Arriving in the port we were excited to be heading to a new hotel – the Kokkini Porta Rossa – which had just opened.

We arrived in time to enjoy breakfast – and that just set the scene for a wonderful stay.

The hotel is a glorious, luxury refuge within the UNESCO Old Town of Rhodes, away from the hustle and bustle of cruise ship passengers and day-trippers.

You can read by full review on The Luxury Editor, and also read about my travels on Rhodes in my portfolio, including my Rhodes Insider Guide.

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Staying in Lindos, on the Island of Rhodes

I had such a great time travelling in Turkey and Greece with my journalist friend from South Africa. It makes for wonderful memories when your travel companion is good fun.

We stayed at some beautiful places, one of which really left a lasting impression, The Melenos Lindos Hotel.

You can read my full profile review on The Luxury Editor.

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Andrew Forbes’ Insider Guide – Cape Town, South Africa

After two spectacular months in South Africa, here is my first of three Insider Guides to South Africa – this first one of the city of Cape Town…with tips from locals I met.

STAY:

Winchester Mansions

With beautiful Dutch Cape architecture, the iconic Winchester Mansions offers a classic Cape Town experience; a vintage feel yet with plenty of contemporary styling. Once a historic apartment building, the hotel offers spacious Atlantic and mountain-view guest rooms. There’s a smart pool area, a spa and an on-trend bistro, bar and restaurant called ‘Harveys’.

www.winchester.co.za

Cape View Clifton

Cape Town’s beaches at Camps Bay and Clifton Bay are legendary. Uber luxury homes clad the hillsides overlooking the bays, making these the most exclusive and desirable neighbourhoods of the Mother City. Cape View Clifton is an exceptionally stylish boutique guest house, allowing visitors to experience the millionaire lifestyle of Clifton Bay in an informal, friendly environment. Expect exquisite accommodation; a gym; fabulous pool deck; and of course that view – a stunning outlook to the ocean where you might even spot a few whales!

www.capeviewclifton.co.za

One & Only Cape Town

The V&A Waterfront is Cape Town’s leisure hub, with a tourist selection of bars, restaurants, shops and entertainment venues – it’s the place where visitors and residents alike come to relax and socialise. At the heart of the V&A, with wonderful views to Table Mountain, is the upscale One & Only resort. Ideal for families, the hotel has an award-winning spa, a relaxed brasserie-style eatery by South African chef Reuben, as well as a ‘Nobu’ restaurant.

www.capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com

Abalone House & Spa

This welcoming boutique Guesthouse has a gloriously eccentric and eclectic interior design aesthetic – a blend of indulgent decadence and vintage charm. Found in the rather pretty seaside village of Paternoster on the Cape West Coast, it’s admittedly not in the Cape Winelands but makes for a romantic and thoroughly different type of place to stay just a few hours’ drive from the wineries and Cape Town. Greeted by Hotel Manager Leigh with champagne and oysters, I knew this was going to be a special place.

The in-house Reuben’s restaurant serves an enjoyable, unpretentious menu of dishes like compressed pear and blue cheese salad, and comforting slow braised oxtail with parmesan potatoes. The adjacent Healing Earth Spa offers holistic treatments. Chances are you’ll be so relaxed you won’t want to leave– except to walk along the wild and unspoilt beaches.

www.abalonehouse.co.za

SEE & DO:

City Sightseeing Cape Town

Admittedly, hardly an ‘insider tip’ but taking one of these hop-on, hop-off red double decker buses is a great way to get a perspective of the Mother City and her surroundings.

www.citysightseeing.co.za

Kirstenbosch Gardens

The city’s botanic gardens make a great pace to take a picnic, enjoy a walk, or just relax and take in some of the most beautiful views in the city, especially from the new Centenary Tree Canopy Walkway.

www.sanbi.org/gardens

Robben Island

Considered the essential tourist visit, this drawn-out, somewhat poorly facilitated half day island & prison tour attempts to share insights into the inmate lives of the political prisoners from Namibia and South Africa of the apartheid era, including Nelson Mandela’s ‘long walk to freedom’. Expected a more moving experience – instead it just felt crowded.

www.robben-island.org.za

Table Mountain Cableway

Touristy without doubt, and busy in high season yet these rotating cable cars offer a vertiginous and exciting climb to the top of the iconic Table mountain – a truly beautiful place, rich in flora and fauna, with, of course, exceptional views.

www.tablemountain.net

South African Jewish Museum

Opened by Nelson Mandela in 2000, it offers a compelling experience with creative interactive presentations – probably one of the city’s most interesting museums.

www.sajewishmuseum.co.za

EAT:

Pot Luck Club

Found on the top floor of the trendy Old Biscuit Mill, this has to be one of Cape Town’s coolest places to eat. Urban design, including an open plan kitchen, makes for a striking loft style environment where Head Chef Wesley Randles follows in the footsteps of his mentor, Luke Dale-Roberts creating tasty, creative, great –value sharing plates that make eating out a truly fun and social affair.

www.thepotluckclub.co.za

Old Biscuit Mill Market

In the heart of Cape Town’s hip Woodstock neighbourhood is where on Saturdays you can find one of the city’s best markets. Get their early and enjoy a world-class street food breakfast to set you up for a morning’s shopping at the myriad of ‘indie’ traders.

www.theoldbiscuitmill.co.za

Devil’s Peak Brewing

South Africa is equally in love with beer as it is with wine, and here you’ll find some fine craft beers, as well as tasty burgers and light bites.

www.devilspeakbrewing.co.za

The Blue Café

An authentic, heritage neighbourhood café, a place to relax and meet the locals.

www.thebluecafe.co.za

La Colombe

Now found on the Silvermist Lodge organic wine estate in Constantia, this internationally recognised restaurant will impress. Head chef Scot Kirton creates exquisite dishes that seduce the eyes as much as the palate – look out for the excellent value lunch menu. This is a must-visit.

www.lacolombe.co.za

The Test Kitchen

One of the top restaurants in the world, this relaxed and unpretentious place is the latest showcase of Luke Dale-Robert’s culinary creativity. Plan ahead and make a reservation, as this centre of gastronomic innovation is popular with locals and visitors alike.

www.thetestkitchen.co.za

Hemelhuijs

One of the great joys of Cape Town is the city’s creative aesthetic. This downtown, all-day breakfast and lunch place will captivate you with its whimsical design and delectable, unfussy dishes served in an unpretentious style.

www.hemelhuijs.co.za

BUY:

Watershed at V&A Waterfront

Sometimes one might forget, but Cape Town is very much an African city and there’s probably no better place to find creative and artisan African products than at the super-stylish new Watershed centre.

www.waterfront.co.za/Shop/watershed

Bree Street

Often referred to as Cape Town’s hippest street, its home to plenty of cool independent retailers, bars and restaurants that reflect the city’s creativity.

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Andrew Forbes’ Insider Guide – Rhodes, Greece

Here’s my Insider Guide to the UNESCO Old Town of Rhodes and the beautiful village of Lindos – following my recent visit, using with tips from locals…

STAY:

Kókkini Porta Rossa

A former Knight’s property, this historic house found within the walls of Rhodes Old Town, has been painstakingly restored by owners Nikos and Angela, creating homey, welcoming yet most certainly upscale accommodation.

Opened in spring 2015, this intimate, 5 suite hotel has already redefined luxury and personal service in the Old Town.

Quick to reach by taxi from the port or airport, the hotel is found close to the ancient gate of St John, (the ‘red gate’ – hence the hotel’s name) in a quiet residential area. The nearby Archaeological Museum of Rhodes, The Museum of Modern Greek Art and the ‘must-visit’ Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights are about 10 – 15 minutes’ walk away.

Nikos and Angela will be your Insiders, guiding you to the best beaches, the most authentic bars and local restaurants. Yet to eat well, you don’t need to go far, since guests can enjoy meals in the shaded courtyard, carefully prepared by Onella, the hotel’s resident cook, using local or Greek ingredients and paired with Rhodian or Greek wines.

The same level of attention to detail extends to the beautifully appointed guest rooms and public spaces, decorated with Rhodian antiques and artefacts from the family’s private collection.

www.kokkiniporta.com

Melenos-Lindos

Lindos is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque villages on the island of Rhodes, and therefore understandably busy in high season. Yet to enjoy authentic Rhodian hospitality, in tranquil and elegant surroundings, then the boutique hotel Melenos-Lindos is the place. This one-of-a-kind property, created by Michalis Melenos, is built on Lindos’ distinctive rocky outcrop below the town’s stunning acropolis. The style is of a period Rhodian village, with the public spaces, terraces and guests suites found in a mix of white washed and sandstone buildings. It is a privileged setting, away from the holiday crowds.

There is beautiful detailing everywhere by interior designer Donald Green who was inspired by the early 17^th century Lindian Mansions found in the town. Expect charming black and white ‘kochlaki’ pebble stone mosaics, hand-painted ceramics, fresco ceilings, carved woodwork; and an eclectic collection of Greek and international antiques.

The terraces of the property offer views out over the Aegean and are styled with vintage tiled fountains, and terracotta pots filled with bougainvillea.

Rooms have a creative, almost bohemian feel, full of individual styling.

In addition to informal snacks and lunches available on the patios and terraces there is a fine-dining restaurant with large roof terrace that is creatively lit with lanterns and candles in the evenings.

www.melenoslindos.com

SEE & DO:

Museums & Galleries

Rhodes is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the finest medieval towns in the Mediterranean. Its history has encompassed the Romans, Byzantines, the medieval Knights of St John and the Ottomans, leaving a rich cultural heritage, reflected in the island’s museums. A visit to The Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights is a must, with its fine collections and impressive location. There are also contemporary and classic art galleries within the museum quarter. Check the city’s web site for up-to-date opening times.

www.rhodes.gr

Walk Rhodes Old Town

Rhodes Old Town is a unique place within the Mediterranean. A romantic mix of mosques and minarets; byzantine churches and mediaeval fortresses; historic mansions and humble homes – reflecting over two thousand years of history. To avoid the throngs of day trippers and cruise line visitors, enjoy this special place early in the morning as the shop keepers are opening up, or at the end of the day, as the sun is setting. Sometimes the city walls are open for walking; if not the former moats make for an equally interesting perspective of the old town.

Acropolis – Lindos

Car rental is relatively inexpensive so it’s worth heading south to the truly stunning coastal town of Lindos. Built atop the town’s iconic rock outcrop is the second most visited archaeological site in Greece, the Lindos Acropolis. On a hot day it may not seem an appealing option to climb up to the top, but the views out over Lindos to the Aegean will remain a lasting memory.

www.visitgreece.gr

Beaches

Of course a visit to Rhodes is about sun and sea, and the island has no shortage of beaches. The nearest to Rhodes Town is Kallithea Beach, popular with locals. With a car the options are numerous and a drive down to Lindos offers a few stunning panoramas and beaches. In Lindos head to St Paul’s Bay – rent a sunbed, order a sharing meze plate of Greek snacks, a glass of wine or an Alfa beer and just relax.

EAT:

Marco Polo Café Restaurant – Old Town

The Marco Polo is an established guest house in Rhodes Old Town. It also makes for an excellent dining option. The garden restaurant has become a social hub in the town, attracting a friendly crowd. Good choice of light Greek and Mediterranean dishes, with Italian influences, such a spinach, orange, pomegranate and feta salad, or a seafood salad with calamari and fresh tuna.

www.marcopolomansion.gr

Griniaris – New Town

If you want a real flavour of Greece, away from the myriad of generic tourist bars and restaurants, then this traditional ‘Kafenio’ should top your list. Family-run, led by charismatic owner Yiannis (from the island of Kalymnos) this uncontrived bar offers tasty, simple island cuisine accompanied by local and Greek wines. Try the strong ‘mastika’ ouzo, and the home made candied quince and almond and fig cakes. The bar has no website, but your hotel will help you find it. It’s at 176 Agiou Ioanni Square

(+30 22410 34005)

Olive Street – Lindos

The Olive Street offers a fresh take on rustic charm. This converted olive oil mill has a clean, simple, elegant design and offers fresh local snacks. It’s a stylish alternative to the touristy bars.

www.lindosolivestreet.com

BUY:

Melenos Boutique

The story goes that Michalis Melenos was asked so many times by guests if they could buy the Greek and international antiques and artefacts in his hotel that he eventually opened a boutique. Now visitors can take home a little of the Greek Melenos Lindos style.

www.melenoslindos.com

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Andrew Forbes’ Insider Guide – Istanbul

Here’s my insider guide to Istanbul following my recent visit:

STAY

Hotel 10 Karaköy

This Morgans Original Hotel is in a 150 year old period building in the über-stylish city neighbourhood of Karaköy. Recently opened, this 5 star luxury hotel is not short on style but there is plenty of substance too, with a superb restaurant by Rudolf van Nunen; a destination Sky Terrace bar for evening cocktails; and guest rooms that set the standard for luxury in this mega city. Expect flawlessly pressed luxe bedlinens, high-tech in-room entertainment, a tempting mini-bar, and sophisticated bathrooms.

Design details are everywhere, from the striking signature lighting installation that fills the multi-level interior open atrium, to the sublime, delicate porcelain flower espresso cups found at breakfast time.

10 Karaköy is in the city´s hottest neighbourhood, full of quirky and artsy independent cafés, bars and restaurants, as well as art galleries, studios and one of the best hamams in town.

www.morganshotelgroup.com/originals/10-karakoy

Hotel Boutique St. Sophia

When it comes to enjoying the tourist sights of Sultanahmet, Istanbul’s historical peninsula, then this 26 room boutique property is one of the best placed. It’s very close to the main square just minutes from the monumental Hagia Sophia Museum; the not-to-be-missed ‘Blue Mosque’; the Basilica Cistern; and the Topkapi Palace. Enjoy super soft sheets, Bulgari toiletries, evening turn-down service and 24 room service. Some rooms have views of the square and the Hagia Sophia. Expect some noise from passing trams and also the regular call to prayer from the mosques, but it is worth it for such a convenient location to take in the sights.

www.boutiquesaintsophia.com

SEE & DO

Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami

It’s a requisite to experience an authentic hamam when in Istanbul. The choice can be bewildering, but my recommendation is this stylish hamam dating back to 1580. The complex is truly beautiful with lots of Ottoman detailing, yet it has been painstakingly restored with luxurious materials. After the rejuvenating ritual you will no doubt be tempted by the boutique, full of exquisitely curated new and antique items for purchase.

www.kilicalipasahamami.com/

Sakip Sabanci Museum

Housed in a beautiful 1930s mansion in the Emirgan neighbourhood, this small museum has an extraordinary and fascinating collection of Ottoman calligraphy. It also has temporary exhibitions of Turkish art.

www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org

Grand Bazaar

It’s touristy and it is busy, but even so, if you go early, it can be a really fun experience. Enjoy getting lost – just see it as an opportunity to find even more interesting stores. To catch your breath, head to Fes Café and order a traditional Turkish coffee – it is beautifully presented on a silver tray with Turkish delight and almond liqueur.

www.kapalicarsi.com.tr

Bosporus Ferry Ride

Although on a first visit to Istanbul it is important to take in the sights of Sultanahmet, a boat ride across the Bosphorus, to the Asian side is also something one just has to do. Staying in Karaköy means it is easy to walk down to the ferries and take a boat across to Kadikoy on the other side. If you are adventurous, simply take one of the regular commuter boats that shuttle back and forth, or ask your hotel concierge to help you choose a service, or organised tour.

www.ensehirhatlari.com.tr

EAT

Mandabatmaz

Even if you’re not a caffeine addict, ordering a Turkish coffee is a must – I found this café that’s very popular with locals. It’s in the historic Beyoğlu district, just off the main Istiklal Avenue that starts near the iconic Galata Tower and leads up to the Taksim square. This tiny café has seating outside, and serves some of the best Turkish coffee in town – thick and velvety. No website, but your hotel will help you find the street, Olivia Geçidi 1/A.

Köşkeroğlu

Baklava is understandably very good in Istanbul. The Ottomans elevated this filo pastry creation to become an icon of their power and sophistication. The district of Karaköy has some of the finest baklava bakery cafés. The most renowned is Güllüoglu, but just the other side of the same building you’ll find Köşkeroğlu where the locals go.

www.koskeroglu.com.tr

Maria’nın Bahçesi

Maria’s Garden Restaurant, with Maria Ekmekçioğlu in the kitchen, brings the flavours of Greece and the Aegean to Istanbul. Open from Breakfast to dinner, this delightful city oasis offers tasty, unpretentious food.

www.mariasrestaurant.net

TRAVEL

Turkish Airlines

Istanbul has emerged as one of the world´s great airline hubs, mainly due to the expansive network of Turkish Airlines which now boasts more direct routes to more countries than another airline. I flew direct from Malaga, on a new aircraft with a friendly crew and great food. I´ve experienced economy and business and both are world-class.

www.turkishairlines.com

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The Kensington Hotel ‘Fashion Forward Experience’

Last month I visited London and spent a night at wonderful Kensington Hotel. I was here to provide a review for the The Luxury Editor. You can read my full review on this link The Kensington Hotel

The property was a real surprise for me. So much more elegant and luxurious than I expected. I stayed in The Knightsbridge suite which really impressive. I won’t repeat the review here, but instead just share some photos to whet your appetite.

Address: The Kensington Hotel, 109 – 113 Queen´s Gate, South Kensington, LONDON, SW7 5LR, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 207 589 6300
Email: Kensington@doylecollection.com
Web: www.doylecollection.com/hotels/the-kensington-hotel

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