Gastronomy | Andrew Forbes

Andrew Forbes’ Insider Guide to Porto (Oporto)

STAY:

1872 River House

The 1872 River House, in Porto’s photogenic Ribeira district, is right on the Rio Douro’s waterfront, with views of the city, river and the Port wineries. It has the personal attention to detail of an upscale guest house with the luxury and style of a boutique hotel. This period property has been completely renovated with vintage charm, yet has truly contemporary amenities such as fab bathrooms, comfy king beds, and luxurious touches such as high-thread count linens and fresh flowers in the rooms.

Relax in the ground floor salon, or on the river terrace, with a local draft Super Bock beer, or a coffee and complimentary cookies. In the morning, enjoy a fresh and tempting breakfast at impeccably presented tables with pressed linen table cloths, napkins and polished silverware.

www.1872riverhouse.com

Hotel Teatro

If you’re looking for a larger hotel, the 74 room Hotel Teatro might just be the ticket. With striking, almost overwhelming, interior design by Nini Andrade Silva, the Hotel endeavours to capture the drama and allure of being backstage.

Built on the site of one of the city’s historic theatres, the cinematic box office reception sets the scene, whilst taking the lift to your room is as if passing ‘behind the curtain’, into another world. Unashamedly theatrical, the hotel’s aesthetic of bronze, gold, and browns makes for a seductive evening ambiance, but this translates less well into daytime, especially at breakfast when I missed Porto’s bright, Atlantic light.

The hotel Bar Plateia is a good spot for pre-dinner cocktails or late night drinks.

www.hotelteatro.pt

SEE & DO:

Taylor’s Port

With a history of over 300 years, Taylor’s is one of oldest Port Houses. Free tours of the historic cellars are offered throughout the day, together with tastings of Extra Dry white port, Late Bottled Vintage and Tawny ports for a modest fee.

http://www.taylor.pt

Blue & white ‘Azulejos’

Search out the city’s exceptional blue tiled panels. A visit to the São Bento railway station, with its more than 20,000 tiles, is a ‘must’, as well as many of the churches, including the Capela das Almas, which is almost completely covered in early 20^th century blue and white tiles.

Vertigo Views

Of the many bridges that span the river, Porto has two ‘stand-out’, iconic wrought iron bridges, the ‘Maria Pia’ bridge, by Gustavo Eiffel, and the twin-decked ‘D. Luís I’ bridge, by Teófilo Seyrig. The upper deck of the ‘D. Luís I’ offers brave pedestrians exceptional, although vertiginous views across the city.

Hard Club

Porto’s nightlife is evolving rapidly as the city becomes ever more fashionable, yet this urban club remains a mainstay for top DJs.

www.facebook.com/HardClubPorto

EAT:

Maus Habitos

An on-trend, multi-functional social & arts space with relaxed restaurant and terrace serving a small, but fresh, tasty menu. Exhibitions, live music, DJ and dancing ‘till late. Also a good place to find out ‘what’s on’ in Porto during your stay.

www.maushabitos.com

The Yeatman Restaurant

Porto’s Michelin-starred restaurant, this is the gastronomic destination for foodies and wine lovers. Flawless presentation and a friendly, unpretentious staff are the perfect complement to Chef Ricardo Costa’s mouth-wateringly good menu of Portuguese cuisine.

Exceptional local and international wine list too. Lunch and dinner, with views of the city – it probably doesn’t get better than this.

www.the-yeatman-hotel.com

Book Restaurant & Terrace

Found in a former bookshop, the literary-themed ‘Book’ restaurant is a relaxed place to find imaginative, bistro-style food. Lose yourself for a few hours in this captivating eatery, where the menu is presented in a book, divided into chapters, and the wine list is themed along the lines of literary genres; even the hot serving dishes are served on books!

www.hotelinfantesagres.pt/

BUY:

Livraria Lello & Irmão

One of the world’s oldest, and most remarkable bookshops, this tiny store has a beautiful art nouveau & neo gothic facade and an interior of stained glass, carved wood and a magical spiral staircase that looks straight out the bookseller in ‘Diagon Alley’ (JK Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter whilst living in Porto).

http://lelloprologolivreiro.com.sapo.pt/

Touriga Vinhos de Portugal

Try before you buy, in this friendly, centrally-located wine store, specialising, of course, in Port.

www.facebook.com/tourigavinhosdeportugal

Loja Tradições

Bring home a flavour or Portugal from this store offering handmade products from ceramics jewellery to fashion.

www.facebook.com/LojaTradicoes

Castelbel

Now one of Porto’s most well-known brands, Castelbel manufacturers artisanal soaps and fragrances. Visit the flagship store within the beautiful Hotel Infante Sagres.

www.hotelinfantesagres.pt

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The modern taste of Lisbon at Restaurante Feitoria by Chef Joao Rodrigues

Contemporary fine dining inspired by the historical adventures of Portugal’s explorers

Said to be one of the oldest cities in the world, and certainly the oldest capital in Western Europe, Lisbon is chock full of history. Reaching down from its seven hills to the River Tagus and the Atlantic Ocean, the city is a mass of ochre roof tiles, towers, spires and shaded, narrow streets.

Head out of the city centre a few kilometres west to Lisbon’s Belém district and one finds some of Lisbon’s most striking architecture, including palaces, squares, the Monument to the Discoveries and the iconic Belém Tower. Portugal was a seafaring superpower and a nation of maritime explorers, and nowhere is that legacy more evident than in Belém.

Yet, here at the mouth of the River Tagus on the Atlantic one finds a very modern interpretation of Lisbon’s adventurous past. The über stylish, 5 star Altis Belem Hotel & Spa, a strikingly contemporary property commanding unforgettable views, is home to one of Portugal’s most exciting chefs, the Michelin starred João Rodrigues.

His Restaurante Feitoria is one of the country’s gastronomic hotspots and he looks to Portugal’s past for modern day inspiration for his menu that celebrates Portuguese produce and wines, combining them with an international flavour.

The restaurant’s wine bar has an Asian ambiance with one entire wall covered in a bold Oriental picture on lacquered wood, a striking reference to the international trading routes established by the Portuguese. The bar is charcoal grey with gold leaf highlights, black leather seats and dark tables that complete the sophisticated look.

We started the evening with a glass of Vertice sparkling wine, from the Douro valley; elegant and fresh, with a delicate aroma and notes of biscuit. It was to be the start of an evening of discovery for me, not only of João Rodrigues’ cuisine but of Portugal’s exceptional wines.

The restaurant feels lighter than the bar, with tables dressed in absolutely impeccably pressed white table cloths, each embroidered in gold with the Restaurant’s name. Full height glass windows look out onto the minimalist style garden and the water beyond. The designer ceiling lights above carry through the gold leaf colour, a touch of extravagance in this simple space, where the protagonist is of course the food.

Service was flawless. White-gloved waiters and waitresses brought each dish to the table, offering a brief introduction, explaining the ingredients, and the chef’s inspiration for the dish. The team was professional.

Andres, the sommelier was exceptional – friendly, and a great communicator, describing the wines with genuine knowledge and passion yet without pretention.

Before the meal began in earnest we enjoyed a few pre-starters – clever and witty ‘amuses’; creations by the chef, including the ‘Apple tree’ – twisted wood, with fois ‘apples’; and a small bread stick; olives and cheese. Then the meal truly began.

Placed before us on the pristine table cloth was a piece of white coral. This ingenious dish, the ‘Reef’, had prawns, eaweed, a fine crisp wafer, lodged amongst the delicate coral – a taste of the sea. With the help of tweezers, one can prise the prawns from the coral – your reward, their fresh, clean succulent taste.

Then a bite size of Chicken Teriyaki followed.

I was still enjoying the Vértice Milléssime Brut, sparkling wine, but with the next starter the sommelier suggested a Bacalhôa white, (2013 Península de Setúbal). With just the right balance of acidity, it was the perfect pairing for the Hamachi, with Oscetra caviar. This tiny dish was meticulously prepared – beautiful, a real pleasure even before taking a mouthful.

The bread that accompanied our meal was artistically prepared and presented with flair.

The next dish was Bluefin ramen, served with tiny radish and seaweed with a clear consume.

Paired with a glass of Casal Sta. Maria Reserva white wine (2010 Colares) which was a delight with the fish, thanks to its citrus notes.

Seabass with blue lobster claw continued the remarkable flavours of the sea. It’s paired down presentation with aromatic foam didn’t prepare us for the glorious flavours and textures. Paired with a glass of Esporão Private Selection (2013 Alentejo) I was now not only in awe of Executive Chef, João Rodrigues’ talent and truly seduced by these exceptional Portuguese white wines!

The menu takes much of its inspiration from the coasts of Portugal, incorporating local ingredients from seaweed to seafood, but also includes meat dishes and traditional Portuguese produce sourced from national producers. The oriental touches make for surprising flavours and a thoroughly modern experience.

The following dish, leaves and bone marrow with tiny crispy croutons was a sensation – rich, profound, distinctive flavours that were perfectly complemented by a glass of Quinta das Marias Reserva Cuvée TT (2011 Dão). This elegant wine is now amongst one of my all-time favourites.

Presentation of each dish is a visual delight that truly enhanced the experience.

The final indulgence before the puddings was a slow cooked shoulder of milk fed lamb. Presented without pretention in a handmade ceramic dish with organic vegetables, this was wonderfully satisfying, paired with a glass of the impressive Pai Chão Garrafeira (2009 Alentejo) red – a wine with an intense bouquet and silky tannins.

It should be no surprise that at this point in the evening I was feeling exceptionally well-fed and just a little tipsy from those superb wines! Although I was pretty talkative the restaurant ambiance was peaceful. Our fellow guests were enjoying their meals with great reverence and speaking in hushed tones, so the restaurant’s eclectic mix of easy listening classics did dominate at times. I think this is the only tiny flaw of the evening for me. I wouldn’t have music, or at least choose something more neutral.

Well, I’m never one to miss the opportunity to enjoy a pudding, and with this extraordinary menu, I was about to have two! Firstly, a celebration of chocolate, one of the great discoveries of the explorers.

Then one of João Rodrigues’s signature puddings, strawberry, basil and kaffir lime – including his ‘false strawberry’, an intricate creation that when broken with the spoon, reveals its hollow centre with another flavour sensation.

At this point we were enjoying glasses of Domingos Soares Franco Moscatel Roxo (2004 Península de Setúbal), a sweet, fruity Lisbon wine with notes of dried fruit and even toffee.

This tasting menu is far more elaborate and generous than expected. The pre-starter ‘amuses’ and other ‘bonus’ dishes make you feel very special – and makes for a very diverse meal. It is a well-designed, balanced menu that truly reaches for the stars when paired with the Portuguese wines.

At the end of the meal we had the opportunity to meet Chef João Rodrigues and thank him personally. It was a truly memorable gastronomic evening.

Feitoria Restaurante & Wine Bar

http://restaurantefeitoria.com
Altis Belém Hotel & Spa
Doca do Bom Sucesso
1400-038 Lisbon
Portugal
Tel +351 210 400 200
Email: reservations@altisbelemhotel.com
GPS: Lat. 38º 41’ 36’’ N Long. 9,12’ 38’’ W

(Photos of hotel and professional food shots provided by Altis Belem Hotel – my iPhone shots are marked with my name. The photographs don’t really do the food justice as with a phone in electric light one can’t really capture the intricacies of the dishes).

Disclaimer:

I was hosted by Feitoria Restaurant but this has not influenced by piece. Please bear in mind that this site and my articles are intended as entertainment only and not a definitive resource for purchasing decisions. Before making any travel or purchasing decision I recommend that you seek as much information as possible from various sources including review sites, guide books and other blogs. If you act based on my writing you do so at your own risk. If you wish to add anything to this piece, simply comment using the WordPress or Facebook plug-in.

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Barcelona Buzz – Mandarin Oriental Hotel

Like a freshly poured glass of sparkling cava, Cataluña’s capital is bursting with energy. Spain is suffering a prolonged bout of low self-esteem – the word ‘crisis’ has been an active part of the nation’s vocabulary for over 5 years now. Yet upon arriving in Barcelona, the city’s effervescence spills over, intoxicating you within moments, confirming that you are in a very different place.

Style and the City

The city’s elegant avenues, where Barcelona’s iconic black and yellow taxi cabs deftly negotiate the traffic seeking out the fastest route, have a seductive, New York City flavour.

I decided to walk the last few blocks to the hotel, enjoying the autumn sunshine filtering through the fading leaves of the plane trees. The Mandarin Oriental Barcelona, probably one of the city’s finest hotels, was beckoning and I was getting in the mood for a few days of urban luxe and glamour with my stroll along the world-class Passeig de Gràcia. Comparisons to NYC’s Fifth Avenue or London’s Bond Street are more than fair; it combines big city clout with glamour, elegance and refinement.

As one of Barcelona’s most elegant avenues, this majestic boulevard is where one can find some of the capitals most striking architecture (two of Gaudi’s architectural and design masterpieces are here, Casa Milà/La Pedrera and Casa Batlló), its most luxurious designer boutiques (find Prada, Stella McCartney, Luis Vuitton, Valentino, Chanel and others) and Spain’s finest hotels.

Recently revamped, Passeig de Gràcia is looking better than ever, the walkways are now paved with stylish hexagonal stones and the occasional art Art Nouveau street lamps are fully restored.

Making an Entrance

Ahead on my right I catch sight of the Mandarin Oriental doormen, formally attired in smart coats and stylish caps, standing each side of the architectural hotel entrance. An inclined contemporary glass, carpet-covered catwalk seems to draw you effortless up through the modern atrium of this fully remodelled mid-20^th century building towards the sophisticated reception.

Formerly a bank, this property has been transformed by the Mandarin Oriental Group into an exceptional hotel. Architects Carlos Ferrater and Joan Trias de Bes have retained the bold façade with art deco detailing, whilst creating thoroughly up-to-date, light filled spaces of generous proportions inside.

The magic one feels upon entering the hotel is thanks in part to Spanish interior designer, Patricia Urquiola. She was responsible for the interiors including the original 98 rooms, as well as the design of the new 5 guest rooms and 17 suites added this year.

The MO Welcome

Check in was swift, polished and friendly. My paperwork was prepared already, with my details and booking correctly detailed (it still amazes me how few hotels do this for guests with reservations). I was offered a cup of warming lemongrass tea, an elegant reminder of the hotel’s Asian roots. In fact Mandarin Oriental’s focus on service is evident throughout the property. I am taken to my suite, in the new wing, by Maite who tells me more about the facilities of the hotel.

Suite Life

Swinging open the tall guest room door, reveals my suite, located in the new wing. It’s a lofty space with a generously high ceiling and classic balcony with full height French windows opening out onto the Passeig de Gràcia. When open, I can enjoy the buzz of Barcelona as it passes my window, yet once closed, it is like a hermetic seal – I am cocooned in the tranquillity of my private suite.

Like the public spaces, the overall feeling in the room is of contemporary Catalan style, but there are lots of classic touches as well as clever Asian-inspired details, like the screen wall along one side and pieces of furniture and uses of colour that ingeniously integrates the MO identity. Urquiloa has collaborated with international furniture brands such as B&B Italia, so it should come as no surprise that she has chosen subtle yet robust pieces from leading names such as Flos, Moroso and B&B Italia to furnish the suite.

Devil is in the Details

The super king size bed is immaculate – not a crease or wrinkle in sight. There is a welcome amenity placed on the minibar, a handmade white chocolate in a red Asian box.

Opposite the bed is a sofa, and tables dressed with hardback books including a beautiful art reference tome on Gaudi. There is a writing desk equipped with stationery, reading light, iphone speaker etc. Lighting is fully adjustable and there are plenty of sockets.

The dressing room, with draw-mounted safe, is equipped with a generous selection of hangers and there are robes, kimonos, slippers, shoe trees etc.

The bathroom, with separate rainforest shower and separate W.C. is compact yet full of light. Smart amenities include the full range of expected 5 star toiletries from shaving kit through to mouth wash.

The bedroom suite can be closed off from the dressing room and bathroom by a full height smoked glass door that slides shut.

Turn down was delivered with discretion and the room was returned to a pristine state with towels and amenities refreshed.

Taste of Barcelona

Breakfast is in the ‘BistrEau’ restaurant, a light-filled salon with statement seating, comfy sofas and retro chic dining tables and chairs.

BistrEau is one of the Mandarin Oriental Barcelona’s restaurants. During the warmer months, the hotel also opens its intimate ‘Mimosa Garden’ (offering shaded seating under delicate mimosa trees) as well as its ‘Terrat’ roof bar and plunge pool – both spaces offer alfresco dining, light bites and drinks.

Then there is ‘Moments’, the acclaimed Michelin starred eatery by Carme Ruscalleda. Ruscalleda, a self-taught chef who opened her first restaurant in 1988 on the Catalan coast, is the world’s ‘most award-winning female chef’. She has a total of seven Michelin stars!

Chef of the Sea

Angel Leon, the ‘Chef del Mar’ or Chef of the Sea is a sensation in Spain. Hailing from Cadiz in western Andalucia, where he has opened his ‘Aponiente’ restaurant, he is the latest talent to bring his cuisine to the Mandarin Oriental in Barcelona.

He has recently taken direction of BistrEau, and I was fortunate enough to be invited to lunch and experience part of his latest menu.

Presented in a relaxed and approachable style, with recommendations for sherry pairings, the menu clearly reflects Leon’s passion for his homeland of Andalucia and the sea. He has created a revolution in cooking by developing a method to farm plankton! Yes, those microscopic organisms that drift and flow with the oceans’ currents. Angel Leon has incorporated this richness of the sea into his dishes and has started a whole new phenomenon in Spanish gastronomy.

At the MO Barcelona Ismael Alfonso is the hands-on talent in the kitchen at BistrEau, preparing a range of dishes using ingredients from the sea and land. His team at work are visible from the dining room, as the kitchen is open. There is also an extended Chef’s Table where a small group or guests sharing the long table can watch first-hand the drama of the kitchen unfold.

From the plankton infused butter, through to the truly tasty plankton risotto, sea urchin burrata, to blanched squid in ink, and an exceptional tuna steak, my meal was a celebration of the sea.

Spa culture

Eating well is an integral part of Barcelona’s culture, so don’t come here if you want to diet. Instead, tuck-in and enjoy some of the best bites in Europe. Make up for it with some exercise and at the Mandarin Oriental its much less of a chore, since the subterranean, 1000 square metre spa is a seductive place to relax and rejuvenate. There is also a pool and compact gym, so no real excuse not to enjoy a run or some training.

Cocktails you can Bank on

The city’s sparkling bar scene is reflected in the ‘Banker’s Bar’ at the Mandarin Oriental. The walls and ceiling cleverly incorporate safety deposit boxes from the original 1950s bank. The ambiance is urban and sexy. The staff are impeccably presented and knowledgeable. On my visit the barman had a vintage look, with visual references to the bar’s financial history.

The Mandarin Oriental Barcelona is a large hotel – yet the team maintain a very personal approach. They addressed me by name and wherever I was needing a helping hand to find somewhere in the hotel, they never simply pointed me in the right direction but instead accompanied me.

With such a glamorous and luxurious address in Barcelona I was reluctant to leave the hotel – but the city beckoned, it neighbourhood bars, its cultural institutions, the architecture, the pioneering restaurants and its Mediterranean shoreline all have to be enjoyed. That’s the Barcelona buzz…

Mandarin Oriental Barcelona

Passeig de Gràcia, 38-40, 08007 Barcelona, Spain

Tel: +34 93 151 88 88

(Hotel photos by award-winning photographer, George Apostolidis – photos marked andrewforbes.com are my iphone shots).

Disclaimer:

I was hosted by MO Barcelona but this has not influenced by piece. Please bear in mind that this site and my articles are intended as entertainment only and not a definitive resource for purchasing decisions. Before making any travel or purchasing decision I recommend that you seek as much information as possible from various sources including review sites, guide books and other blogs. If you act based on my writing you do so at your own risk. If you wish to add anything to this piece, simply comment using the WordPress or Facebook plug-in.

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Modern Cuisine by Schilo

More than ever the identity of cities are being defined by their gastronomy and by the creativity of their chefs.

Amsterdam has been put well and truly on the culinary map by the Dutch chef Schilo van Coevorden. One of the most celebrated chefs in the Netherlands, Schilo has a distinctly international background that inspires his cuisine.

Renowned for inventive use of exceptionally fresh ingredients, the restaurants at The Conservatorium Hotel, by Executive Chef Schilo, are a requisite for any visit to the capital.

(The stunning installation in the lobby of the hotel a creative reference to its past)

The über-lux ‘Conservatorium Hotel’, once conservatory of music, provides a historic setting with plenty of contemporary styling that perfectly complements Schilo’s restaurants – The Brassarie, the Tunes Bar and the Taiko restaurant’s contemporary design and gastronomy.

(Andrew Forbes with Schilo van Coevorden at The Conservatorium Hotel, in Amsterdam)

Each eaterie in the hotel, is a showcase for Schilo’s team’s exceptional attention to detail and masterful combination of flavours and textures.

Schilo’s new project has just opened, Taiko, celebrating all things Asian. Schilo has wowed guests with his Asian-inspired tapas in the Tunes Bar and now this has in turn been inspiration for his new signature restaurant Taiko.

This year I’ve eaten twice in The Conservatorium and below I give a visual flavour of an early summer lunch – full of Mediterranean light, colour and warmth.

(Smoked and fresh mozzarella , with olive oil ‘caviar’, mustard ice-cream, white onion, passion fruit coulis, and shavings of yellow carrot – paired with a French Chablis)

(Delicious premium olive oil from Andalucia and exceptional Dutch butter were served with the bread – when we were seated and offered a glass of cava, a small dish of sweet roasted ‘nueces’ were put on the table.)

(Fresh crab ‘capuccino’ qith tomato and seaweed – paired with a glass of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc)

(Rack of lamb with mint, and neck of lamb, sweetbreads, and an onion tart, a combination of sweet, sharp and buttery – paired with a Catalan Trepat red, matured in clay casks)

(Desert course – strawberries, fresh, freezed dried, bavara and with sorbet and coulis with a touch of chocolate – paired with ‘summer in a glass’ Moscato d’Asti)

Schilo’s culinary journey has included time at notable Dutch, German and British Michelin-starred restaurants, significant success with his own restaurant ventures in the Middle East and Asia, and three years with a signature restaurant in Andalucia. His fresh, sunshine-filled Mediterranean and Asian inspired creations are prepared with local and European ingredients and paired with wines from the restaurant’s superb list.

Lunch, Brunch, Afternoon Tea or Dinner at The Conservatorium is an experience, an occasion that will become a lasting memory of any visit to Amsterdam.

(I was first introduced to Schilo’s gastronomic style and quality at his signature restaurant in Southern Spain, at the 5 star Finca Cortesin Hotel – you can read see my post here.)

(The stunning table setting)

When I was last in Amsterdam, the Hotel Conservatorium hosted a lunch to mark the annual ‘Open Gardens’ – when the hidden, secret gardens of the UNESCO canal quarter are opened to the public. A feast visually as well as gastronomically!

(the Menu)

(‘Laura Ashley’ Lobster)

(Courgette Flower)

(Calves sweetbreads)

(Monkfish)

(Nasturtium)

http://www.conservatoriumhotel.com/

(For more information, see my Insider Guide to Amsterdam here)

Disclaimer:

I was hosted by the city of Amsterdam and its partners but this has not influenced by piece. Please bear in mind that this site and my articles are intended as entertainment only and not a definitive resource for purchasing decisions. Before making any travel or purchasing decision I recommend that you seek as much information as possible from various sources including review sites, guide books and other blogs. If you act based on my writing you do so at your own risk. If you wish to add anything to this piece, simply comment using the WordPress or Facebook plug-in.

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The Eclectic Barrios of Buenos Aires

The secret to discovering the Argentine capital is through its distinct neighbourhoods

It was almost ten in the evening when my taxi drew up against the kerb and stopped. The street lights created pools of light that spilled out over the pavement. There was no name outside on the street, just a house number, 725, by the iron gate; but the taxi driver confirmed it was the right place. As I walked up the steps to the neoclassical house, the front door swung open and I was ushered inside. It was the start of a truly memorable evening in one of South America’s most dynamic and creative cities.

Megacity

I’d been in Buenos Aires just a few days. At first, the city seemed overwhelming; it is vast, sprawling and intense. Reaching out from the shores of the broad Rio de la Plata estuary the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires is without doubt one of South America’s megacities. Its own autonomous province, this port city is home to almost forty per cent of the nation’s population, known as ‘porteños’. Buenos Aires is divided into distinct ‘barrios’ or neighbourhoods; districts that have their own strong identities, almost like separate towns. The city has some 48 ‘barrios’ and I was advised by a local that one of the best ways to start to feel part of Buenos Aires is to immerse oneself within a few of these districts.

Eclectic neighbourhoods

They say Buenos Aires is the Paris of the south and to get a flavour of this more romantic side of the capital, I visited the upscale neighbourhood of Recoleta.

Here the architecture is extravagant, neoclassical in style, a clear reminder of the city’s strong European heritage with French, Spanish and very much Italian influences throughout the district. Here residents live in posh apartment buildings with elegant facades and ornate balconies. Along the broad avenues are where many of the classic 5 star hotels can be found, including the iconic Hotel Sofitel with its striking art deco style tower and the famous Alvear Palace Hotel.

For a more contemporary experience, the port side developments in Puerto Madero offer some of the city’s best restaurants and stylish hotels in renovated vintage red-brick dockside buildings or new, gleaming glass towers. From here I could glance the impressive city skyline from one viewpoint and brilliant white cruise ships from another.

It Takes Two

San Telmo by contrast has a more edgy feel, the buildings are covered in graffiti and the pavements are cracked and damaged. Yet is it here that there is a more genuine flavour of the city of Tango. During the weekends in San Telmo you’re more likely to see couples refining their passionate dance in the main neighbourhood square, ‘Plaza Dorrego’ or if you want to get involved, try your luck in one of the Tango halls or bars. The truth is that although this sexually charged dance is probably the city’s most famous cultural export, once I arrived in Buenos Aires I felt that Tango had been hijacked by the tour agencies and tourist firms. There are no shortage of contrived Tango-themed dinner and dance shows to choose from, but it was harder to find an authentic experience.

For a ‘downtown’ experience, then head to the Microcentro. This is the heart of the city, where you will see the major city institutions, the iconic pink ,’Casa Rosada’ the Government House, as well as the main theatres and galleries.

It´s the hub of the subterranean metro system too, the ‘subte’ so from here it is very easy to get around on the graffiti covered trains.

During my visit the district felt very politically charged – frequent, almost daily demonstrations marched noisily through the streets, water cannons sat ominously by the side of the road, and semi-permanent barricades were installed in front of the ‘Casa Rosada’.

For a more relaxed atmosphere I made it to the football neighbourhood of La Boca, home to the Boca Juniors stadium.

Here you’ll find ‘El Caminito’, a touristy area since the 1950s and ‘60s that offers a slightly artificial, yet truly appealing notion of Buenos Aires as the city of the Tango. Ramshackle period houses, painted in vibrant colours, and decorated with street art, line the pedestrianised area. Ground floor restaurants open out onto the cobbled streets, offering classic Argentine fare, together with a modest dance show or live music.

Home comforts

Probably the most chic and definitely the most happening neighbourhood is the once bohemian quarter of Palermo. This large part of the city is divided into various trendy areas, including SoHo and the glamorously sounding Hollywood, so called as this sophisticated and on-trend neighbourhood is a hub of creative businesses and media companies. This district has some of the best cafés, tea houses, bars and restaurants in Buenos Aires. The colourful streets are also full of quirky independent boutiques, gourmet food stores, and inspirational interior designers.

It is here that I discovered ‘Home’, a fashionable, yet understated, award-winning, 20 room boutique hotel created by Brit record producer Tom Rixton and his wife Argentine PR director Patricia O’Shea. It combines the comforts of a beautiful home with the luxuries of a refined contemporary hotel.

In a city that is so enormous, overpowering and impersonal, ‘Home’ brings things back to a human scale, with an intimate and welcoming style. In addition to the bespoke designed guest rooms, there are four suites including the pool suite and garden suite, each with vintage furniture and stylish décor. The most magical place is the beautiful, secluded garden with heated pool, where you can take in the sun, relax at the bar, sit amongst the trees or at the end of the day dine on the terrace, under the star-filled sky.

Closed doors

Yet you won’t want to stay put for long – Palermo is the buzzing heart of the Buenos Aires food scene and nightlife. It was the reason I took a taxi to that mysterious, discreet address one evening and was left at the door of an unmarked house. This was one of many ‘puertas cerradas’ restaurants in Buenos Aires. These so-called ‘closed door’ restaurants date back to the last financial crisis in Argentina, when accomplished chefs struggled to maintain the overheads of restaurants and new, emerging talent was unable to find work. They innovated by creating private dining experiences in their own homes. Each evening a different multiple course menu was created and typically paired with wines.

Over the last decade many of these closed door, homespun dinner clubs have evolved into upscale eateries – really restaurants by all intents and purposes, but ones that only accept guests by reservation and only offer a set menu.

I had chosen ‘i Latina’, an exotic closed door venue that combined Argentine cuisine with Latin American Colombian flavours, an eclectic menu as diverse and colourful as the neighbourhoods of this extraordinary city.

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Small island, big welcome – Menorca (Minorca) Balearics, Spain

Although smaller than most of its neighbours, Menorca is an island with a big heart

Looking in through the large metal door that had been left ajar, it took a moment to adjust to the light of the interior. The large workshop was shielded from the brightness and heat of the sunshine beating down on the outside street. I was motioned to come in. The placed buzzed with activity and the sounds of machines whirring and punching.

The space was filled with the woody, musky almost floral smell of leather; rolls of tanned hides of differing colours and textures were stacked on broad shelves against the walls; whilst filling a corner were hundreds of small black plastic soles, paired together with elastic bands.

I’m in Ferreries, a white washed, inland village on the small Mediterranean island of Menorca (also known as Minorca). This ancient community, almost hidden amongst the few hills found on this relatively flat island has long been the home to Menorca’s sustainable, artisan industries that make beautiful leather goods.

Go slow

Menorca’s interior is easily explored; and its pastoral landscape, still defined by thousands of kilometres of dry stone walls dating back centuries, makes walking, cycling and horse riding a big draw for visitors. There is always something to see on the way, including ancient megalithic stone tombs and monuments that are found throughout the island, forming part of a complex history that has also been marked by battles and invasions.

Now though Menorca is defined by its slower pace of life, a friendly and welcoming holiday destination with a big heart. The island has maintained its Mediterranean, Balearic identity, through a distinct gastronomy, local crafts and a protected environment.

Beach life

I’m having a day away from the beaches. Yet with over 200 kilometres of coastline, it is sometimes hard to pull oneself away from those postcard-perfect beaches with photogenic aquamarine waters. The south of the island offers the most popular and expansive pine tree fringed beaches including Son Bou, Cala Galdana and Cala’n Bosch, although these are developed and sometimes crowded in summer. Luckily there are plenty of small coves too, including Cala Trebalúger in the south east, and Cala de Binibèquer in the south west, for those searching for a quieter experience.

The Balearics are also about sunsets and mellow beats, so for the quintessential Menorca ‘sundowner’ get to Cova d’en Xoroi, in Cala’n Porter. It’s true that one has to pay to get into this unusual cave bar, built high into the cliff, but with such stunning views, expertly crafted cocktails and some cool tunes, it is worth the climb and the price.

Wild coast

Menorca’s wealthy Balearic neighbours, Mallorca and Ibiza are the faster-paced, more glamorous destinations, but Menorca, the ‘small island’ is where the big, untouched beauty lies. So to escape the well beaten summer holiday trail, and the tourists that spill out from the larger hotels, head to the island’s wild north coast. It is sometimes windier here, but for those willing to trek a little, there is an ample reward; the hidden Menorca. Here one finds off-the-beaten-track coves or ‘calas’. This is where many of the islanders themselves enjoy their free-time, with wind surfing. Off season this rugged terrain is dotted with unusual natural rain water ponds, surrounded by twisted pines and rugged rocks.

Fiesta fun

However peaceful and slow-going much of the island may be, summer is certainly party time. Menorca has just welcomed summer in a big way with the ‘Festes de Sant Joan’. These traditional festival celebrations involving dancing horses and plenty of madness, go on for days each June in the city of Ciutadella, in the west of Menorca.

The summer continues with plenty of fiestas, concerts and events and this month sees Ciutadella celebrating its 41^st summer classical music festival; whilst in the east, Mahón, the island’s capital, plays host in July and August to Menorca’s biggest international music festival.

These port cities are the vibrant heart of the island’s social scene. Ciutadella, the old capital of Menorca has a real charm, with a beautiful old town, ‘Es Born’. The narrow streets are full of ancient palatial homes, and historic buildings.

Island tastes

Mahon was made the capital when the British invaded in the early 18^th century, and still has architectural and historical elements reminiscent of the British occupation. The city has many restaurants and bars and is increasingly being recognised for its gastronomy. It may upset the French, but it is said that mayonnaise originated from Mahon, (hence ‘Mahonesa’ ) so expect some rich and tasty aioli with tapas and pintxos in the local bars. The town is also famous for its creamy cheese, ‘Queso de Mahon’ presented in large squares.

Look out too for the locally produced gin, richly flavoured with island grown juniper berries. Introduced to the island by the British, this distinctly Spanish Gin remains popular. Don’t order a ‘G&T’, as most drink it straight, or mixed instead with lemonade. This is called a ‘Pomada’ and is for many the summer flavour of the island.

Understandably one can enjoy plenty of fish and seafood too. On the north east coast is the village of Fornells. Overlooking a narrow, deep bay, this is the place to enjoy authentic cuisine in one of the waterfront seafood restaurants. The small traditional llauts, or lobster fishing boats, bring in the daily catch, so of course the dish to try is the ‘caldereta de llagosta’ or lobster stew; it’s pricey, but worth it.

For those with a sweet tooth, take a bite of an ensaimada. It’s the typical cake from Menorca, a sweet and sugary pastry that’s made with pork fat giving it a distinctive, rich flavour. It may not sound appetising, but it is surprisingly good.

Skilled craftsmanship

Back at the Ferreries workshop, I’m seated and having my feet measured. Within minutes a hide is being stamped and the precisely cut pieces of soft leather are expertly stitched to a sole. I’ve been lucky enough to be invited to see first-hand how ‘Avarcas’ are made – the elegantly simple sandal that although is unique to the island, is popular across the Balearics and internationally.

Just in time for me to step back out into the bright sunlight in search of a place for lunch I’m generously handed by very first pair of Avarcas. These hand-crafted shoes pretty well sum up this fascinating island for me; authentic, simple and beautiful.

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