November, 2015 | Andrew Forbes

The Elgin Marbles – Everything You Always Wanted to Know But Were Afraid to Ask…

Visiting Athens and the spectacular Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece has changed by view point on the controversial Elgin Marbles – so I decided to dig around and found out what I could. This is what I discovered.

The Parthenon Marbles – the story so far

Human Rights Lawyer Amal Clooney has once again put the so-called ‘Elgin Marbles’ back into the media headlines this year. Considering that the lawyer and her team prepared a 150 page report for Greek Ministers on the case for legally reclaiming the artefacts from the British Museum, it might be hard to summarise the centuries-old controversy in just a few hundred words…but here goes.

Carved more than 2,500 years ago, the Parthenon Marbles are Greek classical sculptures and architectural details that were once part of the Parthenon and other temples on the Acropolis.

7^th Earl of Elgin

For centuries what is now modern Greece was part of the Ottoman Empire. Thomas Bruce, seventh Earl of Elgin, was Britain’s ambassador to the Ottoman Empire in the early 18^th century when he allegedly acquired permission from the Ottoman governors of Athens to remove the sculptures and take them to the UK.

According to museum sources, the Parthenon had become badly damaged a century before when Ottoman gunpowder and ammunition stored in the temple exploded in 1687. Afterwards, according to the Acropolis Museum, visitors would go through the rubble taking Sculptures and fragments at souvenirs!

British Museum

By 1800 it was believed that almost half of the original marbles were either destroyed or stolen. It was therefore argued, during the decade it took for Elgin to remove almost half of the remaining Parthenon marble sculptures, that they were being preserved. By 1816 they were acquired from the Earl by the British Government and passed to the British Museum where they have remained ever since – on display for free since 1817.

Photograph © Andrew Dunn, 3 December 2005.

Website: http://www.andrewdunnphoto.com/

Since Greece become an independent country in the 1930s, the country has been trying to repatriate cultural heritage that it considers was taken when the country was ‘occupied’ by the Ottomans.

Diplomatic and legal disputes have raged. Yet this year the new Greek government announced it was not going to pursue legal action against the UK but instead rely on diplomatic pressure.

Waiting for the Marbles

The new Acropolis Museum completed in 2007 was built as the new home of the Parthenon Marbles, and features originals as well as casts of the missing marbles within its Parthenon Gallery on the 3^rd floor.

The British Museum points out that it is not the only museum that has classical Greek artefacts from the Acropolis, citing other European institutions such as the Vatican and the Louvre Museums, The National Museum in Copenhagen as well as two German Museums that all hold Parthenon sculptures.

The story is surely going to continue for many years to come.

Sources:

http://www.britishmuseum.org/

http://www.theacropolismuseum.gr

https://en.wikipedia.org

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Living it up in Amsterdam – with a few nights at The Grand

This year I headed to SAIL2015 – it’s pretty much Europe’s buggest Maritime Festival. Every 5 years this mega boating bonaza sails into town, and what’s more the flotilla of vessels is dominated by some of the most stunning Tall Ships in the world. Google it – it’s extraordinary.

The trip was organised by the City of Amsterdam, through their development office ‘I Amsterdam’. As a guest of the city I had extraordinary access to the event, including a vist to the iconic Amsterdam Clipper, and a chance to sail down the river to mingle amongst the boats and then enjoy an open air classical music concert! Yeah, those Dutch know how to make messing about in boats something fun.

But a highlight of the trip was also the chance to visit some fancy hotels – and you all know how much I like 5 star luxury. You can see my review of the Hotel De L’ Europe here. I also spent two nights at the Sofitel Legend The Grand. As with other Legendary properties, the place is a real part of the city’s history.

Aptly, considering I was there for teh SAIL festival, The Grand was once the Dutch Admiralty, and let’s not forget that before the Brits starting dominating the globe, the Dutch were their first as the world’s greatest maritime nation. The Admiralty was a centre of serious power. Now its the centre of some serious luxury. Having said that I only got to stay in a Superior Room – yeah, I know that sounds like a spoilt brat, but really, I wanted a suite!

You can read my review of The Grand for The Luxury Editor here.

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Andrew Forbes’ Insider Guide to Athens

Pallas Athena Hotel

Even before Greece’s financial crisis, Athens had always been a vibrantly political city and many of the capital’s buildings have become canvasses for urban street artists.

Found on the predominantly neoclassical Kotzia square, the smart Pallas Athena 5 star boutique hotel takes inspiration from the creativity and urban art found across Athens. The brilliant white lobby has stand-out pieces of art that set the scene as soon as you arrive, whilst amongst the 63 guest rooms and luxury suites are ‘graffiti’ rooms with works by well-known artists who have created different themes to appeal to families, couples, and younger guests. There are also classic suites too, with more low-key décor and art.

Take a moment to explore the ‘Agreco Corner’, the hotel’s boutique for organic produce, fragrances and body care products from the Grecotel’s Cretan estate. The same products are found in the guest bathrooms.

Dining at the hotel’s Gourmet Restaurant is on-trend with its Cretan cuisine, including some excellent cheeses, organic vegetables and island lamb – three course meals are from 22 euro. Breakfast is very generous, with international favourites as well as mouth-watering Cretan delicacies.

www.grecotelpallasathena.com

New Hotel

This design hotel is close to the ‘Plateia Syntagmatos’, the constitution square, making it well connected with the city metro network and easy to get to from the airport, thanks to the direct X95 bus. It’s also steps away from the Parliament, so take the opportunity to see the regular changing of the guard ceremony.

The hotel’s unique ‘look and feel’ was created by the famous Brazilian designers, Fernando and Humberto Campana. Inspired by their iconic Favela chair, the hotel’s lobby is the first of many spaces that will make a real impact. An art installation of reclaimed furniture wood, including much from the original Olympic Palace Hotel, covers the walls of the entrance and the restaurant. The penthouse-style rooftop lounge is open till late. Breakfast in the New Taste restaurant is excellent and the morning chocolate cakes are irresistibly good.

The striking guest rooms include designer furniture, some vintage pieces from the original hotel, as well as signature design motifs from the Campana brothers. It all adds up to a great-value, cool, central place to call home whilst in the city.

www.yeshotels.gr

SEE & DO:

The Acropolis

So when in Athens, one has to visit the Acropolis, birthplace of modern western civilisation. But it’s worth bearing in mind that about 10,000 other people have the same thought each day. So it’s important to be prepared when heading to this ancient citadel, home to the iconic Parthenon, the Erechtheum and other remarkable sanctuaries and temples.

First of all get to the ticket office early, when it opens (between 8am and 8.30am) before the cruise ship groups arrive – allow 20 minutes or so to walk up to the entrance from the metro. The 12 euro ticket is valid for a few days and includes other ancient sights. Go now as the Greek government has suggested that prices may increase considerably by Easter 2016.

Wear super-comfy shoes as many of the paths are poorly maintained, and the rest, well they’re ancient.

At sunset embrace being a tourist and take the short walk to Areopagus Hill and take a selfie with the Acropolis as a backdrop.

http://odysseus.culture.gr

The Acropolis Museum

Athens has no shortage of exceptional museums and galleries celebrating the country’s classical heritage, including of course the National Archaeological Museum. Yet I particularly enjoyed the new Acropolis Museum. Built ready to house the Elgin Marbles, (still controversially held by the British Museum), it has a permanent collection presented with contemporary flair, as well as temporary exhibitions. The restaurant is excellent too – a great place for lunch.

www.theacropolismuseum.gr

The Benaki Museum

If you can’t take in any more ancient artefacts, then this museum offers a refreshing change with some memorable 20^th century Greek art. (There’s also plenty of pieces covering the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods if you still have an appetite for history).

www.benaki.gr

Central Market District

City markets have to be one of the best ways to get immersed within contemporary day-to-day city life. Head to the Varvakeio Market before breakfast for a lively start to the day. In addition to the central hall full of traders selling fish, meat, vegetables, cheese and more, the surrounding streets and alleyways offer a myriad of fascinating street vendors.

www.cityofathens.gr

Outdoor Cinema

The balmy eastern Mediterranean climate means that outdoor cinema is a regular Athens pastime. Cine Aegli is one of the more commercial, but well located, just off Syntagma Square and set within beautiful gardens. One of the oldest is Cine Thissio – it also offers a spectacular backdrop of the illuminated Acropolis!

http://cine-thisio.gr

www.aeglizappiou.gr/cine.html

EAT:

Diporto

This basement restaurant, with a vintage feel, has no sign outside, and once inside, no menu. Sit, smile, and let the dishes and wine arrive – chances are you won’t spend more than 10 euro each.

No website – Head to corner of Theatrou Square and Sokratous street 9.

Varoulko Seaside

One of the best known restaurants in the city, now located at the Mikrolimano Marina, a cab ride out of the city centre. It’s a great excuse to enjoy some sea air, and further exercise the credit card – this is upscale award-winning Michelin star cuisine.

http://varoulko.gr

Psaras restaurant

Undeniably touristy, but if you’re looking for the quintessential Greek taverna experience with long wooden tables and woven seats set out under trees, then this is for you. Found in the quaint Plaka district which has a more charm than most areas of Athens.

www.psaras-taverna.gr

Bios terrace

Cool, urban roof terrace, perfect for a drink whilst taking in a view of the Acropolis. Bios has much more to offer since it’s an indie arts and cultural venue within an edgy industrial space.

www.bios.gr

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